The Regional Cuisine of Abruzzo
Abruzzo is often called the land of parks. Its lush green atmosphere is a rich resource for the region’s people whose main source of economy is agriculture. Abruzzese cuisine is a hidden gem among the many regional cuisines of Italy. Nestled just above the ankle of the western part of Italy’s boot, Abruzzo is home to one of Italy’s highest peaks. Abruzzo’s cuisine, unlike Tuscano or Emilian cuisines, is not often sought out by tourists or travelers. That does not mean it is not worthy of such seeking, however, just that it is a secret that not as many are privy to. Perhaps you should consider yourself lucky.
Abruzzese chefs are masters at turning simple ingredients into masterpieces with very little extra showmanship. It may be the regional cuisine of Abruzzo that has made pasta so synonymous with Italian dining. Almost any Abruzzese meal begins with a pasta dish, and hand rolled and stuffed pastas are among the favorite. Crepes are rolled in olive oil and seasonings after being stuffed with fresh meats and cheeses. Polenta is a very popular dish, and is often served with a hearty meat sauce.
Sheparding is a common trade of the Abruzzo region, so animals common to this practice are very popular for meals. Lamb, for example, is diet mainstay for the people of the Abruzzo region, as well as sheep and mountain goats. The Abruzzese also herd wild boars and pigs for food as well, and some even breed their own. Much of the cooking in Abruzzo is done over a live wood burning fire, and olive oil, rosemary, and wine are used in many dishes. In addition to the lamb and salami dishes of the inland people, fish are caught and served very fresh in the coastal areas of the region. Marinated in vinegars and wines, the fish of Abruzzo are a treat to the palette.
While the food in Abruzzo is delicious to be sure, perhaps more unique are the customs surrounding the food. A practice specific to the area of Abruzzo is a tradition called “la Panarda.” La Panarda is a magnificent feast that consists of upwards of thirty courses, and can sometimes last all throughout the night. Sometimes as many as fifty separate courses are served, at a leisurely pace, as everyone is expected to partake in all of the food and merriment.
The tradition of la Panarda is passed down from generation to generation. According to legend, a young mother left her home briefly to fetch some water for her family. Upon her return home, she found her young baby in the mouth of a hungry wolf. Desperate to save her newborn, the woman prayed to Saint Anthony and the wolf let the baby go. As a token of her gratitude, the woman prepared a massive feast for the helpful saint, beginning a tradition that is passed down from generation to generation even to this day. La Panarda is a great way to try all of the different types of dishes that Abruzzo has to offer, just remember to make some room in your stomach before you head out to one. It can be a long night.